No North Shore trip is complete in just visiting Duluth. Looking further north yields more beauty and more not-to-be-missed experiences.
When you're driving out of Duluth, skip taking the freeway and follow old highway 61that's the most essential part of the experience. It's slower, but that's the point. It'll also take you past a multitude of parks where you're all but required to stop, get out of the car and lose sight of the pavement completely (and here's where that annual park pass that I mentioned in an earlier post comes in handy). Gooseberry Falls and Split Rock Lighthouse are popular and justifiably so. I like them bothGooseberry for hiking and Split Rock for great rock picking on the beach (if you're a rock hound, grab a copy of Rock Picker's Guide to Lake Superior's North Shore by Mark Stensaas and Rick Kollath. And yes, I swear, rock picking can be fun, even though its fun factor sounds roughly equivalent to watching water boil. Lake Superior throws a bounty of weird, colorful and beautiful stones on its rocky beaches, and I've even seen kids spend hours scouring the shores. Trust me, it's worth a shot.
In all honesty, I usually pass by Gooseberry and Split RockI'm always on a mission to get to my favorite North Shore park, Temperance River. The hiking is easy to moderate, and the scenery can't be beat. Of particular interest are the "potholes" that have been worn away over the centuries by the powerful river. Whether you choose to climb up toward the falls or down toward Lake Superior, it's an exceptionally beautiful park in a region filled with beautiful parks. Of course, it's hard to have just one favorite, so Cascade River is also a regular on my list of things to do. There all-the-way around hike takes a while (a few hours, at least) and could probably be rated as "moderate" for all it's ups and downs, but there are plenty of other hikes in the park that are shorter and less strenuousjust be sure you see the falls.
Grand Marais just might be my favorite small town in Minnesota. It has a quiet, seaside and just the right balance of artistic temperament and Midwestern modesty to make you feel welcome and to keep you interested.
Stay: My personal favorite within Grand Maraisbecause of its price, location and the friendliness of the ownersis the Gunflint Motel (101 5th Ave. W.). Glamourous it's not, but it's clean and it has a kitschy charm. The price is right, too: rooms range from $49 to 89, depending on the season and the days of the week you plan to stay. It's also a plus that they accept dogs, for a small fee.
About 14 miles north of town is the truly unique Naniboujou Lodge (20 Naniboujou Trail). It began life in the 1920s as an exclusive club where the rich and famous would come to get a taste of the Minnesota north woodsBabe Ruth and Jack Dempsey can be counted among its visitors. Now, it's a quiet, peaceful place with a spectacular dining hall painted with traditional Cree designs in a bold spectrum of colors. The price points are fair for the area, ranging from the mid- to upper $70s to over $100. There are no phones or TVs in the room, which adds to the relaxed atmosphere, and the lake is just outside the door.
See & Do: Again, I find that simplicity is the most rewarding. Here are the ingredients for a great time: A book, a blanket and Artist's Point. Grab your great read and a cushy blanket (you'll be sitting on rocks) and walk out to Artist's Point, grab a spot with a vista you like, and split the hours between gazing at the scenery and reading. Take a walk out on the jetty to the lighthouse and watch the sky glow as the sun sinks below the Sawtooth Mountains.
For something a little more active, rent kayaks or a canoe from any of a number of outfitters in town, or make the drive to Oberg Mountain for an easy introduction to the Superior Hiking Trail and climb that is rewarded with stunning panoramic views of the lake and surrounding wilderness.
In the spring and summer, Grand Marais hosts a wide variety of special events, like the Grand Marais Jazz Festival (May 22-24), the Boreal Birding and Northern Landscapes Festival (June 4-7) and the Grand Marais Arts Festival (July 11 & 12).
Grand Marais is also the gateway to the Gunflint Trail so you can get out into the wilderness after visiting the charming lakeside town.
Take a day trip from Grand Marais and point your compass still further north. You'll find an engrossing open-air museum at Grand Portage National Monument. It's a fascinating step back in time to the days of the voyageurs. Learn about the Anishinabe and Ojibwe people who inhabited the area and fur traders of the North West Company. Even kids (or adults) who think it sounds a little boring will be surprised at how interesting the expansive monument can be. I'm normally put off by history re-enactors in period costume, but the assembled staff at Grand Portage gets top marks for being fun and informativenot cheesy.
Keep following scenic Highway 61 north right up until you can see the border crossing, but don't go past ityour objective is Pigeon Falls at Grand Portage park, where you can stand in Minnesota and look across the river and falls to Canada. It's an ideal place for people of all ages to take in naturethere are pristine walking paths for those who aren't as adventurous, but the views at the end are as rewarding as any on the North Shore.
Eat: You're going to be burning a lot of calories on your trip, so don't feel guilty about going to World's Best Donuts (10 E. Wisconsin St.) for breakfast. I'm partial to the super-sugary skizzles. If you want some healthier or more filling options, check out The Wild Onion, at the Harbor Inn (207 W. Wisconsin St.). They've got all the breakfast staples and the ingredients are nice and fresh.
If it's bumper-sticker worthy, you've got to give it a try, right? There are enough Sven & Ole's bumper stickers swarming around the Twin Cities to make you think it was either in Minneapolis or St. Paul, but no, it's in downtown Grand Marais (9 W. Wisconsin St.). Uniquely Minnesotan pizzas like the Uff Da Zah, the Vild Vun or the Shicken and Vild Rice Zah are more than just goofball namesthey're really good.
The Dockside Fish Market (418 W. Hwy 61) is a great place for grab and go treats with distinct Lake Superior flavor. They have delicious cheeses and smoked fish in the deli case, as well as soups, chowders and fish wrapsand if you plan ahead, you can attend one of their traditional wood-fired fish boils (June 28, July 26, August 9 and 23).
The Gunflint Tavern (111 W. Wisconsin St.) is a good dinner bet, with fresh, creative but not-so-out-there-that-your-kids-will-balk fare. They also have a great microbrew selection and great live music. The Angry Trout Cafe (416 W. Hwy 61) has lots of great seafood options, but I'm a particular fan of their catch-of-the-day fish and chips, using the freshest fish from Lake Superior. Grand Marais' slightly pricier options, including Chez Jude (411 W. Hwy 61) and The Crooked Spoon (17 W. Wisconsin St.), offer exceptional food and, luckily for budget conscious foodies, some good lunchtime prices.
Shop: For its size, Grand Marais has quite the shopping selection. My interchangeable stops one and two are Ben Franklin and Drury Lane Books. Ben Franklin (101 W. Wisconsin St.) is a little bit like a step back in time, or into another dimension where you can find furry plaid hats, toothpaste, good hiking shoes and greeting cards all in one place. It's an experience that you won't want to missjust don't plan on going on Sunday, when they're closed. Drury Lane Books (12 E. Wisconsin St.) is one of my favorite independent booksellers in the state. It's a pocket-sized powerhouse, and superb editing keeps it filled with unique titles that never fail to accrue in a pile on my lap. They have a frequent buyer clubI suggest joining because if you've go once, you'll be back. Sometimes, the weather on the North Shore isn't what you expectlast year, when I left the sweltering July heat in Minneapolis to head north, it was in 50s. If you're stuck without the right gear, go to the Lake Superior Trading Post (16 S. 1st Ave. W.), where you'll find the outdoorsy clothes you need, as well as books, snacks, shoes and other gear.
For More Information: To get the full scoop on Minnesota State Parks on the North Shore, go to the DNR Web site, and to learn all about lodging and dining option as well as upcoming events in Grand Marais, visit the city's excellent tourism site. For more North Shore ideas, check out the first installment of this story.
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