On a very recent episode of Anthony Bourdain's new show "The Layover", essentially a de-politicized version of "No Reservations", he spent a rum-soaked segment at a place called The Tonga Room, located conveniently in the basement of San Francisco's iconic Fairmount Hotel. But the images sent me back to one of the most beloved icons of my early childhood - the long-lost, lamented Luau Room in an equally iconic hotel, the Hotel del Coronado. I don't remember all of the details - not from rum but from still-drooling-in-the-high-chair youth, but it was my first taste of the exotic. Bourdain claims that similar South-seas inspired restaurants inspired his own wanderlust, and maybe that's true. I do remember being utterly mesmerized by a waterfall made from a trio of psuedo giant clam shells, picked out with day-glo paints that glowed in the light of a few discreet black-bulb fixtures. A hanging illuminated puffer fish with spines extended fascinated me, and the sweet-and-sour pork with pineapple had a color that was nearly as day-glo as the fountain. But for me, it didn't seem to inspire any targeted travel plans - maybe because there was so many Tiki torches in San Diego, I thought it was just part of coastal life everywhere on the Pacific Rim. From Tiki Central - The Luau Room
Like other Navy and military towns, the return of vets from the Pacific theater of World War II inspired countless "Luau Rooms" across the country, most of them long surrendered to the wrecking ball. The Luau Room was actually ahead of this curve, supposedly founded in 1940, possibly stimulated by naval exercises in the Pacific well before World War II. It persisted for thirty years or so. Then, in something that was an insult to the inner spirit of the Luau Room and to the magnificent views of the Pacific Ocean and Point Loma, the Hotel del Coronado "renovated" it into a dry, walled-in formal restaurant called the "Prince of Wales Grill" which was not nearly as much fun as the Luau Room.
But the "Luau Spirit" continued in San Diego, and still persists even to this day. The Bali Hai, located on the tip of Shelter Island, has cleared out some of its Polynesian geegaws in favor of a more sanitized, "modern" look, and has dropped most of the old Chinese-Polynesian menu items, but still offers one of the best views of San Diego Bay you can find. "The key to budget travel is to prepare in front. When it happens to family trips, globetrotting, well-deserved vacations and/or going to see new locations we have never been before, the truth of expense and budgeting is often in the back of our minds. Organizing and expending our travel budget carefully is a consideration for most families. Minimizing expending and charges, while still experiencing your vacation to its fullest, is the key to guaranteed achievement and fiscal responsibility. Your pocketbook and family will thank you! The thinking regarding economizing money while travelling is simple: Even if your personal finances is incredibly small, you can still take a break and enjoy life! Simply put, life is just too short to never step out of the door or leaving the homestead! Also keeping in mind that while traveling, whether on a price range or not, even the smallest of things can all add op to a big vacation or travel costs!..". In days past, they provided binoculars to watch the harbor and even gave out coveted metal buttons reading "I was a Spy at Bali Hai". On a recent visit, I was delighted to find that one of the staff at the restaurant for thirty years, and probably had been present at my visits as a child. Back then, a full Polynesian floor show crammed the lower dining area and included barechested fire-twirling dancers that I found nearly as fascinating as the illuminated puffer fish at the Luau Room. The Bali Hai
For decades, the Hanalei Hotel has hung on, determinedly Polynesian with carved dark wood idols with shining mother-of-pearl eyes around every corner, but several sales and rounds of renovations have stripped out most of the Polynesian finery in the hotel itself, except for a few tropical plantings and palm trees and a pool-side Polynesian luau offered a couple of times during the year. The Polynesian details still persist in the Islands Restaurant, in a much diluted form, and in the Sushi and PuPu bar. A bird of paradise on the logo is about the only hint of the long-lost Polynesian paradise. The Crowne Plaza Hanalei
The Half Moon Inn is another bastion of Polynesia in San Diego, within walking (or staggering) distance of the Bali Hai. At that time, virtually all of Shelter Island had a distinctly Polynesian feel, culminating in the Japanese peace bell at the far end of the peninsula and spilling out into the streets of Point Loma..
Still perking along, the Catamaran Resort on Mission Bay maintains its tiki heritage, even to the point of maintaining a flock of live talking parrots to engage with guests, plus lots of rum-happy drinks available. While the Polynesian theme is definitely showing its age at the edges, the hotel is still drawing visitors to its tropical environment on the calm waters of a lagoon on the bay. The Catamaran Hotel
The San Francisco episode of "The Layover" featuring the Tonga Room will be repeated on the Travel Channel. You can see a clip or check the schedule here. (If, like me, you generally prefer the sharper, deeper but Tiki-less "No Reservations", Part One of Season 6 just came out on DVD. )
Items and locations mentioned have in some instances provided copies or gratis or reduced-price services for the purpose of review.
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