Part VI continues with my trip about Spain and Portugal. From Sacramento to Lisbon, follow my journey through these two countries. Leaving Madrid, I head to Granada to see one of the most interesting cities in Spain
Day 10 - Leaving Madrid, entering Granada
On our last day in Madrid, we slept in until 9:30 as we finished our packing to get ready for one of our longest trips on our vacation. That is one thing I like about Spain. You can sleep in and never worry about a maid walking in on you as they dont start cleaning until 11 am or so. I do love the late nights and late starts in the mornings. Most sights dont even open until 10 am so there is no need to get up early and rush.
We headed to the bus station (I knew how to get there this time) and caught our bus to Granada at 11:30. We had a 5 hour drive with a quick half hour stop for lunch. For most of the trip, I slept and listened to my iPod. We finally arrived in Granada around 4:30 and took the bus downtown.
In just the ride to downtown and the brief walk to find our hotel, Granada was already one of my favorite cities on our tour. There were two parts to Granada a more modern city and the older town which seemed like you were still in the time of the Moors. All of these areas were divided by a statue of Queen Isabel and Columbus leading to the two separate areas of town.
It was a beautiful warm day which made my impression of Granada even more favorable. Compared to Madrid, this was a smaller city but with so much more culture, life, and energy. We checked into our hotel, Los Tilos, in the Plaza de Bib-Rambla. The staff of the hotel was not exactly friendly but our view was the best of any hotel we have had. We were on the top floor and had a balcony that overlooked the square. We could see the people and restaurants abuzz down below and could even see the Cathedral and the Alhambra on the hill.
After settling in, we walked through the modern part of the city to the biggest department store chain in Spain, El Cortes Ingles, to book our train tickets to Ronda. From there, we walked back through Plaza Isabel de la Catolica and Plaza Nueva the modern edge of the city to the edge of the old city. Granada is not an extremely large city (300K) but there is more culturally diverse history here than any other city in Spain. There are two hills in Granada, the Alhambra and the Albayzin quarter, while the middle contains the Royal Chapel and Cathedral and the more modern part of the city.
On our way back to our hotel, we went through the Alcaiceria, a Moorish neighborhood filled with silk shops and other stores. I dont care for silk and shops but the experience of this is amazing. In just this one neighborhood, you leave Spain and step into another country. All of a sudden I felt like I was in a Muslim neighborhood in the Middle East with the silk shops, Moorish dress, and Arab music. What used to be a huge Moorish market is now down to just this one area of the city. Besides this experience and the shops, you also see one of the huge people groups in this area, Gypsies (correct name is Roma).
After leaving the Alcaiceria, we took a nighttime stroll toward the Alhambra up the steep Cuesta Gomerez street. This was a back entrance into the Alhambra along a quiet path up to the beautifully lit Moorish palace. We wandered around a bit before taking the bus back down the hill. For dinner, we stopped in for tapas and sangria at a bar and then a more expensive meal of pizza and wine. After a wonderful stroll through Granada to get acquainted with this beautiful city, we headed to bed for an early start for our appointment at the Alhambra.
Lessons Learned - Don't let disappointments in one place cloud your judgment or view of the next place you are going. Every place is unique and there will be things you like and don't like. Travel to each new destination with an open mind.
Alcaiceria market in Granada (Credit: JB)
Day 11 - the Alhambra
Today was the earliest morning of our trip trip. We woke up at 7:30 so we could make our appointment at the Alhambra. The Alhambra is the last Moorish stronghold in Europe before being expelled to Africa. The Christians gradually pushed south and the Moors were finally pushed out of Spain in 1492. The palace consists of 4 areas Palacios Nazaries (the palace itself), Generalife Gardens, Charles Vs palace (Christian palace erected in the Alhambra after Granada was conquered), and the Alcazaba (old fort).
Water is a symbol of Islam and is found throughout the palace as well as the Moorish tiles and architecture. Islam doesnt allow portraits of people or animals so all of the architecture is based on symbols, tapestries, and colors representing the Muslim view of Heaven, and Arabic language symbols. The Alhambra is the biggest Moorish palace in Spain and is a huge part of Spanish history. Because of that, it is one of the most visited sites in all of Spain.
Arriving at the Alhambra, the lines were VERY long. If you dont have a reservation, you have to get there early as there are only 7800 people allowed in per day. However, since we had a reservation and had already paid, we went right to the front of a shorter line and printed our tickets for our 9:30 entrance. Since we got in a little early, we wandered through the circular palace of Charles V. It was an ok sight but nothing about it really stood out. Afterward, we waited in line for our appointment time and went into the palace of the Alhambra. Architecture is so different with the non images, tiles, and stucco. I have very little interest in architecture and dont care for the Moorish architecture although visiting this place was special. However, K liked the architecture. We saw the many different rooms (Court of Myrtles, Courtyard of Lions, Hall of Kings, and Hall with a view).
Overall, I was disappointed in the Palacios Nazaries. The lions were removed from the Courtyard of Lions and enclosed in as they were renovating the structure. The Grand Hall was closed off. Maybe my expectations were too high or maybe it was more hype than it was beautiful. It was nice and interesting to see a different piece of history in Spain but I expected it to be more grand and impressive than it was. The key to budget travel is to approach ahead. When it happens to family trips, globetrotting, well-deserved vacations and/or going to see new locations we have never been before, the reality of expense and budgeting is often in the back of our heads. Preparation and expending our travel budget correctly is a main concern for most families. Curbing expending and fees, while still experiencing your vacation to its fullest, is the key to assured success and fiscal responsibility. Your pocketbook and family will thank you! The thinking behind economizing money while journeying is simple: Even if your personal budget is incredibly small, you can still take a break and enjoy life! Simply put, life is just too short to never step out of the door or leaving the homestead! Also remembering that while traveling, regardless of whether on a finances or not, even the smallest of things can all add op to a large vacation or travel expenses!. The Alcazaba (fort) had great views of Granada and the Generalife gardens were a bit disappointing. There were some nice trees, bushes, flowers, and landscaping. The view of the garden in the summer palace was the best and most famous.
While this wasnt my favorite place to see in Spain, the history and story of this place is a vital part of Spanish history. It is something you have to do and I am glad I did it since it is the most authentic Moorish remains in Spain. I am sure there is a wide range of responses to the places as there are many people who love the architecture and are fascinated by the Moors and their history in Spain. For me, it just didnt live up to the expectations that I had as I was not as not impressed by the palace or gardens as I thought I would be.
After finishing up at the Alhambra, we headed back to the hotel. After an early morning and a few hours at the Alhambra, we had a quick pasta lunch and then took a nap for 3 hours. After we woke up, we walked up toward the Albayzin to the Mirador San Nicolas for the best view of the city at sunset.
After watching the sun set, we walked up the hill to the Albayzin. This is the best old Moorish quarter with lanes, flower patios, and colorful corners. This is a very authentic neighborhood and it is like stepping into a small slice of a Muslim/Middle Eastern culture. We even got to visit the Great Mosque of Granada. We didnt stay too long as some areas are a little dangerous after dark. After a walk through the Albayzin area of the city, we headed back down the hill for more sangria, tapas, and dinner. Because we had such a long and busy day, we headed to bed after a little ice cream.
Lessons Learned - You can save time at some of the busiest sites and museums by booking your tickets early. You can save hours in line and give yourself more time to see other sights and more of the city. Also, experiencing the cultural part of a city that is so different from your own helps open our minds and experiences to all the people around us.
Part VII - Granada to Ronda
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